July 15, 2006

restaurant: toro

the other day, nini and i went to toro, in the (far) south end on washington and mass, the latest from john critchley, who is actually in the kitchen, and ken oringer, who is coincidentally marrying nina's school friend from the 5 towns, and now should also be referred to as restaurateur in addition to chef. you should overlook the complaints of citysearch readers about the "service" and such things, which are important for a restaurant, but neither make nor break one.

importantly, toro is a great place for food. the portion sizes are generous, meant to be shared, and prepared with a great deal of care.

the sweet-and-spicy green peppers were lightly fried, tender on the inside, and perfectly seasoned with coarse salt. the sweetbreads served on a skewer were crispy, also perfectly seasoned, and accompanied by a brush of piquillo pepper aioli and a mound of fruit foam (it's a beauty). skirt steak a la plancha was exactly medium rare, served with a circle of cabrales blue cheese, and when nina wanted it to be cooked a bit more, it was promptly replaced with a medium version. and finally, the stew of crab, lobster and sea urchin, was just that, extraordinary. so were the dates, compliments of the chef and his bride, stuffed with cabrales and wrapped in jamon. strong work!

we'll be coming back, "palate fatigue" notwithstanding.

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